Nisyros

Yesterday evening I stumbled on a book store. They had even two maps of Nisyros, 1:35 000 and the hiking map, 1:20 000. Nice.
The plan is to rent a motorbike. I pretend that I know something about driving it but have forgotten. Dimitris gives me a brief lesson, I drive a few rounds in the port and feel confident enough to take the bike. And he feels confident enough to give it to me. 200 meters in Vietnam and some circling aroung my aunt's house don’t actually count as practise. But where could be a better place to learn than an island with virtually no traffic.
There’s only one gas station on the island, half way from Mandraki to Pali. The guy there also checks oil and tires. Very professional. Manage to speed up to 30 km/h and feel very proud of myself.
A brief stop in Nikia. A picturestque village hanging on the mountain side. Don’t find the volcano museum but find the church and light a candle. No people, except for two tourists.
Very steep serpentine goes down to Avlaki. There’s an abandoned port and interesting looking black rocks. I take a swim and then eat a giant donut watching the waves. That’s what a vacation should look like. Or a variation of it.
Back up to go to Pachia Amos beach. I reach 40 km/h.
At the end of Lies beach are two naked man. The funny thing is that they have arrived on six motorbikes. From there a trail goes beneath a wall full of holes and strange figures. On the other side is one more naked man. That still makes 2 bikes per naked man.
The sand is dark and hot. Looks like a desert. I swim and enjoy the view. Practise declination of „write“ in Arabic on the sand. A spider climbs on my towel and starts some kind of exercises.
Sun sinks down and I go back before it gets dark. The light has reached a level where landscape has gotten back it’s structure and shadows are longer than their owners.
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