I can see trees from my bed and hear birds through the open window.
Linger for a while, then get up, make coffee and porridge and try to put everything back as it was.
It is a joy to cycle without the wind-brake. Haldi harbor hides behind a big dilapidated building. I turn towards Ristna and follow the local cycling route nr 301. A few small villages, mostly forest. Not many people seem to live here. When the postal service drives past me already for the second time then the driver waves with both hands. Maybe he’s also desperate to see someone.
Make a detour to Kõpu Suurekivi resting place. Signs point deeper and deeper into forest. Finally I see a huge rock and a bench. There have been better equipped resting places. Drizzle, put on rain clothes. That serves also as mosquito defense. Rain stops and does not return.
The harbor café in Kalana looks closed for good.
I climb Ristna lighthouse and then try to find out from the girl guarding the tower where exactly is Kõpu lighthouse. On the coast or inland. She’s unable to neither point the location on the map nor adequately describe the way there and finally sighs „it would be easy to go there if you had a smart phone“. Stupefying power of technology. Another question I ask is whether the café where a sign pointed earlier could be open. Could be. But Hõbekajakas is definitely open.
It’s on the Hirmuste road junction. Two doors are locked. The third is open. I step in an something starts to beep. Burglary alarm. So it wasn’t that open. Better to leave the scene.
Along small forest roads towards Kalurikoja forest cabin. Looks like GPS knows where Kõpu lighthouse is. It’s inland. So I have to decide between lighthouse and forest paths. The paths win. The lighthouse just isn’t on my route. The forest here has a changing face. And it’s still standing. I’ve on no other day during this trip seen so many clear-cut areas as today.
There are people at the forest cabin. I’ve always been alone here. I settle a bit further away from the cabin at a picnic table. A young man comes and invites me to have soup. He knows birds. His girlfriend Jaana works in a burger joint and would be afraid to hike alone. I drink one of their beers. Sun comes out. Evening is wind-still again. No mosquitoes. Strange. Moon shines.
Distance 70 km.
It is a joy to cycle without the wind-brake. Haldi harbor hides behind a big dilapidated building. I turn towards Ristna and follow the local cycling route nr 301. A few small villages, mostly forest. Not many people seem to live here. When the postal service drives past me already for the second time then the driver waves with both hands. Maybe he’s also desperate to see someone.
Make a detour to Kõpu Suurekivi resting place. Signs point deeper and deeper into forest. Finally I see a huge rock and a bench. There have been better equipped resting places. Drizzle, put on rain clothes. That serves also as mosquito defense. Rain stops and does not return.
The harbor café in Kalana looks closed for good.
I climb Ristna lighthouse and then try to find out from the girl guarding the tower where exactly is Kõpu lighthouse. On the coast or inland. She’s unable to neither point the location on the map nor adequately describe the way there and finally sighs „it would be easy to go there if you had a smart phone“. Stupefying power of technology. Another question I ask is whether the café where a sign pointed earlier could be open. Could be. But Hõbekajakas is definitely open.
It’s on the Hirmuste road junction. Two doors are locked. The third is open. I step in an something starts to beep. Burglary alarm. So it wasn’t that open. Better to leave the scene.
Along small forest roads towards Kalurikoja forest cabin. Looks like GPS knows where Kõpu lighthouse is. It’s inland. So I have to decide between lighthouse and forest paths. The paths win. The lighthouse just isn’t on my route. The forest here has a changing face. And it’s still standing. I’ve on no other day during this trip seen so many clear-cut areas as today.
There are people at the forest cabin. I’ve always been alone here. I settle a bit further away from the cabin at a picnic table. A young man comes and invites me to have soup. He knows birds. His girlfriend Jaana works in a burger joint and would be afraid to hike alone. I drink one of their beers. Sun comes out. Evening is wind-still again. No mosquitoes. Strange. Moon shines.
Distance 70 km.
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