from Peraküla to Leetse

The young man either enjoys camping in blowing sands or he does not now what erosion is. There are fools in the world.

I leave Peraküla behind where once a long journey started and current hike has reached its final curve.

I follow RMK hiking trail for a while leaving out the places where I remember being soft sand or shingle. In the forest are birds and no wind. Choosing a route on my own I at one point end up at a house where a big black dog runs out barking loud. Seeing me, he turns around and returns with a toy.

In Ristna harbor a guesthouse is being built. There are also cool reflections and a beach. I try if water is as cold as it was in Peraküla. It is. A Russian-speaking construction worker orders grill sausages on the phone.

A break at Vihterpalu campsite where grass and young birches now hide the view from the road. The campsite has got new garbage bin and axe.

Detour to Kurkse harbor where Pakri islands and Paldiski harbor are visible over the water. The place got famous when 14 young men drowned here during a military exercise.

In Padise is a shop that is closed on Sundays. So now ice-cream on Sundays. Luckily the shop two kilometers ahead does not know anything about Sunday ice-cream ban.

After Padise comes of course Madise where a pinkish church catches my eye. Near to it is an old graveyard without any sign or even a fence.

Paldiski harbor is too big for a photograph. I visit a shop and hurry through the city although when I later see a picture of the museum of sculptor Amandus Adamson I regret not having to take a more thorough look at the place.

In the end of Pakri cape is a restaurant that has just been closed for the evening. I still manage to get tap water from the people busying themselves around the house. The lighthouse next to it is open. An especially long staircase leads up.

The coastline hiking trail heads steeply down the cliff. The path is very sandy. And enormous amount of mosquitoes in the forest. Instead of dealing with sand and mosquitoes I’d like to look around because on one side is the cliff and on the other shining sea with a strange ship. Later I find out that it lays an underwater pipeline.

There are five campsites in Leetma. I initially find two of them and choose an Estonian family over Russian disco music. It’s quieter. Russian-speaking people don’t practice greeting.

Water has not gotten any warmer. More and more mosquitoes arrive from somewhere. The colors of sunset are wonderful as if nature knew that today is the last camping night of this trip. The ship makes noise otherwise it would be totally quiet. The sun sets directly into the ship. A great crested grebe swims past, seven young on its back.

Distance today 95 km.