from Toolse to Aa

For a change it is nice to sleep inside.
In the morning I eat all items on offer and the food bag of the bike is filled to the rim. Hopefully something was left to the hosts. Farwell pictures and Madis’ grandma stays waving on the window.
For start local people have built a downhill road and I reach 35 km/h. After that is uphill as a punishment.
Chimneys of Kunda are already visible. Big bunch of geese in front of Olerex gas station. Either they came for a burger or they have nowhere else to be. Daffodills next to the road. A road with broken pavement goes down towards Lontova. Now I understand how the brake shoes wear off. I take pictures of the White House that’s past glory is still faintly visible. Thr oldest part of Kunda has been named after the Neu London hotel. Later the factory’s director lived here until the soviet regime turned it into apartment house. The road continues through a forest of lily of the valley.
In Letipea is Ehalkivi, the biggest rock in Estonia. It’s circumference is 49,6 m. It is a very big rock. I make a picnic with all of the food I got from Toolse. One of the best picnics so far.
A damp forest road circles around the peninsula until it reaches a gravel road. Then I find another gravel road with a gate with threats in two languages. The gate is wide open. It is so much shorter this way. So on I go, a little bit tense but meet nobody except for some clear cut area in Adriku restriction zone.
The bicycle starts to whistle. Some oil takes care of that.
A tough uphill strech to Kalvi manor. Then I have to decide if I want to continue on gravel or on the highway. The hum of the higway is already audible. Scary so it will be gravel. The path goes along a high edge, sea is somewhere far below. A tired gate that I open and close after me without giving it much thought. Maybe someone has forgotten it here. The path is grassy now and very comfortable to drive on. I notice some dung in the grass. When I look around more closely I realise that I’m inside a pasture with hundreds of other sheep. Now it would be time to use the excuse of all stupid tourists in the world and explain how the gps told me to come here. In the middle of the pasture is a deserted building with a sign claiming it to be defence forces property. If these around me are soldiers then they have a really clever camouflage. The sheep look at me and comment among themselves. In the other end of the pasture is a gate with double electric fence.
Aseri. I try to locate the church of Holy Ksenja but locate the shop instead. An older man asks about my goings and wishes a good journey in Russian. A group of youngsters in blue overalls are picking up garbage. I don’t find the church although gps claims me to ride around it.
Now I have to go to the highway for a while. Very unpleasant experience. On smaller roads the drivers leave me more space. Bus drivers are especially nasty. So I happy to turn down to Liimala to rest my ears and nerves. But what a downhill that is, 41 km/h. People who have told me about flat northern coast are probably from Tallinn and have never come more east than Käsmu.
I’ve entered Ida-Viru county.
With low expectations I react to the sign of Tulivee restaurant. But it is open and I can get food. A very fancy place. Except for me. I the only customer. The girl comes to ask if I ordered pasta because I’m full vegan or is parmesan okay. Parmesan is okay. Very sensitive attitude towards eating disorders. I splurge with Irish coffee. This being unemployed still needs some practise.
Through a maze of gravel roads through Moldova to Aa. Aa manor looks cool but no-one obviously takes care of it. I remember that I’ve forgotten to take water. The map shows some blue ribbon going down to the beach. Hopefully not too much pollution in it.
The beach is beautiful although there is garbage on the grass. A wonderful evening. Calm sea, sound of birds, sun going down and shining on me. I read a book and open the beer I got in Käsmu. It should now be foamy enough after hopping on all those stones and tree roots.
Last chance to enjoy 1 degree nights, it is promised 7 degrees for tomorrow.
Today's distance 63 km.
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from Käsmu to Toolse
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from Aa to Toila

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