entering Iran

We enter Iran from north.
That means first driving to Riga by bus, taking an airplane there to Baku and arriving in the night. Or so it seems.
People in the airport convince us that there's no train to Astara, only a bus. Lot of action in the bus station and some confusion with the exchange rate. Old ladies with black head scarfs look at me curiously but they seem friendly and harmless. Anyway, it is still dark and I fall asleep before we leave the city.
Loud overhead music wakes me up. Outside is endless mud field and small booths with "tractor" and "Kamaz" written on them. It starts to rain, visibility drops to zero and I fall to sleep again.
Astara is a sleepy border town. The town on the Iranian side is called the same. We have to wait until tomorrow to cross so we find a hotel, try to get to the lake (too much mud) and eat some shashlik.
A man from a street cafe invites us to breakfast. Everything is delicious. The border crossing goes swiftly, no bribes paid. Everyone comes to look at the Baltic people. A short fight with the money changers, then taxi to Ardabil. From there we take a bus to Tabriz and arrive in the dark. Again. People are very friendly. Wearing a head scarf is a nuisance.
Next
some stops before Esfahan

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