I have saved the whole day for Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon.
It was closed for tourists this spring after Justin
Bieber had made a video there and his fans trampled over all of the nature. Now
it’s open but the sign says that it’s not allowed anymore to walk in the bottom
of it. What a shame. Canyons often look more impressive from below. This is
also the kind of place where you have to make way between Chinese and Germans
who are wearing tights. Not that people have come here without a reason. The
canyon is worth a look. One just has to watch out not to walk into selfies. The
trail is short and it rains so I soon go to read in the car.
It seems that rain is not going to stop. I drive
back to Kirkjubæjaklaustur. There‘s
supposed to be coffee in the tourist information booth. There‘s also
information. Although I planned to have coffee and read and then walk the short
trail that starts at the campsite I ask how is the road towards Langisjór or
long lake. Should be fine. Since I have nothing better to do and the
information booth is not a place to read and drink coffee for a few hours so I
og to have a look if the lake is visible through the clouds. Half way there I
realise that the lake is further away than I thought and I don‘t have enough
fuel to get there and back. Unsufficient preparation. The landscape that I can
see between rain drops is still stunning and I decide to drive as far as
possible so that I would reach back to the gas station and just walk along the
road or something. I reach a place when road goes through river. I have a look
and drive into the river. Adrenaline is higher on the other shore but nothing
terrible happens.
I notice a hiking trail that goes towards small
waterfalls. The trail goes along the river, river passes some tunnels that lava
has made. Awesome. The whole landscape has been torn apart and then covered
with moss. If one could save the energy that pierces earth like that. The place
is called Eldgjá and a volcano erupted here in the year 934. It was
the bigger eruption in the world during last millennium.
I come to a parking lot from where new trails
starts. One could spend many days here. I walk until a waterfall called Óræfafoss and back
from the upper ridge of the canyon. The water falls in two parts over the
ridge. It is much cooler than Seljalandsfoss or Skógafoss, I have to admit. I
don’t know how it looks with sunshine but with clouds it is cool. Going up the
cloud covers part of the view and everything looks even dreamier. No people
here for some reason. A few cars past me on my way here and on the trail I met
one family and two couples during three hours.
The way back somehow goes faster. It is clearing up
over the sea. I take my flask full of coffee in the gas station and go to write memoirs.
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