Instead on 2:15 the lightswarm approaches around three o'clock. So I spend three quarters of an hour sitting on a bench in port. It is cold and I'm too sleepy even for reading.
Half past five Dimitra waits for me in the accommodation. Me and two Swiss I picked up on the ferry. They didn't have a night stay booked.
The room is all white as I remember from the pictures.
Unfortunately I don't get to sleep as long as intended because my door opens to the common kitchen. Or so it seems when life starts on the terrace about eight. People yell in Estonian.
Astypalea, butterfly-shaped island. It was created when Poseidon harassed a nymph who in the end of the story turned into butterfly and spread her wings across the foamy waves of the Aegean sea. Looked from above the contours are shaky through the hot haze but the shape is recognisable.
There's no plan. I left home before the plan-making reached this far. Lazing with a book on the terrace is no option due to the commotion there. No especially nice beach or trail located within comfortable walking distance.
The map says that about three kilometres from here is Tzanakia beach. I've copied from somewhere that it is beautiful and for nudists. Nudists are harmless because they cannot hide a dagger in the fold of their robes.
I journey through the vertical streets of Chora (yes, again). Geographically Astypalea belongs to the Dodecanese but architecturally to the Cyclades. The houses are more interesting though, not all uniformly white. A lot of cats here. A motorcycle slo2s down when the driver sees me taking a photo across the street. Wow.
After Chora comes Livadi and then there's a small beach. It is not Tzanakia but I'll go to have a look. It's hot and there's no wind today. There are two trees and two persons. Since people have the habit of moving in groups I assume one of the trees being unoccupied. So it is, the tree is inhabited by bees. The persons are two Greek ladies who laugh loud in the sea. Beach of Marry Ladies. We head for open sea accompanied by splashing. Today it is possible to swim since there are no waves. Later I sit under the tree where someone has arrange two flat stones into a seat, read and listen to the bees. The Finns (the book) have a point sometimes but at places they are rather simple.
A cloud appears. I walk back and sleep until dinner. No boat to Kounoupi beach, the season is over for that. A lot of places seem to be closed. Kounoupi is a narrow stretch of sand between two microscopic islands. I stare at the map. Looks like rental car.
It rains.
The ferry goes in the night. Didn't manage to avoid night travel completely.
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